1970s/80s Punk Hair with a Modern Twist

Mohawk:

Equipment:

• Pintail comb
• Sectioning clips
• Heated rollers
• Roller clips
• Small hairbands
• Paddle brush
• Afro brush
• Hairspray

Steps:

1. Turn on the heated rollers.
2. Section the hair down the middle so that it is wide enough to fit the large rollers all the way down. Clip the sides out the way.
3. Using the large red rollers, start at the top of the head and work your way down to the neck. The larger rollers get us the big curl and height that we need to create this. 
4. Take down the side sections and start to french plait them, following the natural curve of the head. 
5. Let the rollers completely cool down before taking them out. 
6. Once cooled, take the rollers out one by one, backcombing each one at the root as you take it out. This will stand the hair up out the way, making it easier for each roller you take out next. 
7. Backcomb again, all the way to the end of the hair to make it completely stand up, hair-spraying each one to help. 
8. With the afro comb, start to smooth and blend each strand at the roots. 

You can then comb out each strand and blend it all into one big section of hair. Using your afro comb to blend each section and to backcomb if necessary. 

Horse Mane:


Equipment:

• Pintail comb
• Paddle brush
• 4 hairbands
• Kirby grips
• Fine grips
• Straight hair pins

Steps:

1. Section the hair into 4 equal horizontal pieces. Starting at each ear, over the top of the head, the back of the nape and the remaining section at the bottom. Pull each section into tight smooth ponytails. 
2. Using the natural curl of the hair from the rollers, twist the hair in the direction of the curl with your fingers and pin into a place creating a bun shape. Ensure that you hide the grips and the hair bands with the hair. Repeat this with every section so you are left with 4 buns.
3. Using the straight and fine grips to pull each hair together to help it blend. 

I created mine buns diagonally so that each one flows in a zig-zag shape.

I am pleased with how this has turned out, for my first attempt I think I have done quite a good job. I think I have improved more on my backcombing and I am actually pleased with how that turned out! To make my horses mane design more contemporary, I decided to create mine in a zig-zag shape going down the head so it flows rather than just being straight down. I had fun creating these two designs but I don't think it is an era I want to create for my final design.

Putting on an Acrylic Wig

In helens lesson, we learnt the correct way to apply an acrylic wig. It is very important when you apply any wig that the anchor points are put in place correctly and you get the hair as flat to the head as possible. In theatre, some characters will often have to quickly change wigs ready for the next scene. You will need to know exactly where your anchor points and pins are so you can quickly and easily take off the wig and put on the next. 

Equipment:

• Kirby grips
• Pintail comb
• Sectioning clips

Steps:

1. Using the pintail comb, section the hair to create a middle parting and clip up one side out the way.
2. Take a small square section at the front of the head, twisting it round your fingers so it creates a pin curl. Grip into place.
3. Continue creating these pin curls along the hairline. I did 3 on mine but it depends on the size of your pin curls and your models head. 
4. Create one big pin curl/wrap at the back of the head and pin. Take sections from each side and wrap them around the big curl but leave 2 sections at the back of the head behind each ear.
5. Make 2 pin curls with the sections that are left at the back as this creates more anchor points. 
6. Once all the anchor points have been created, ask your model to hold 2 fingers up on each side like bunny ears to help you put the wig cap on. Pull it over the head, covering all the hair at the back then continue to make sure the front and sides are covered too. Pin through the cap into the anchor points, 2 at the sides and 2 at the bottom of the neck. Using your pintail comb, push all strand hairs under the wig cap so they are hidden. Then pull the wig cap back slightly at the front so that the natural hairline can be seen rather than the wig cap.
7. Once placed, apply the wig. Secure it with hair grips at the top of the head, the sides near the ears and the back where the 2 anchor points are. Make sure your model is comfortable and all hair is covered. 

This is one of the wigs I chose, it wasn't the best looking wig as a majority of them were being used. I would have liked to use my own wig, but it was still out for delivery! I am pleased with my application of the wig, I feel comfortable in putting them on and am happy with creating my anchor points. I am looking forward to applying more wigs and designing and creating my wig for my assessment. 

1960's Beehive/Backcombing

The week before this lesson, we were asked to have a look at family photos from the 60's to see how our family members used to wear their hair. I looked at my nan's photographs and came across a few that some look very 60's and others that do not so much. 

Equipment:

• Heated Rolls
• Roller pins
• Roller clips
• Sectioning clips
• Hairbrush
• Pintail comb
• Hairspray
• Kirby grips
• Fine grips
• Paddle brush

Steps:

1. Turn on the heated rollers.
2. Part the fringe on the side and section off at the ears. 
3. Using the brickwork technique, start in the middle at the top of the head making sure each roller is pulled tightly so it sits back on the section and that all the hair is smoothly tucked under. You can use your pintail comb to help this. 
4. Continue with the brickwork technique until you reach the back of the head, before it dips down into the neck.
5. The hair at the side and to the nape of the neck will need to be curled so each side is facing towards each other. This will help with the natural beehive shape.
6. The fringe that is sectioned off round to the ears will need to be curled so the direction of the curl gives height for the fringe. Once all the hair has been put into rollers in the correct direction, let them cool down completely. 
7. Take out the rollers and the curls should naturally fall into the direction they were curled.
8. Backcomb the section you brick-worked to create volume and height for the beehive. Make the backcomb nice and strong so no hair can be seen through. Wrap the hair over and to create a quiff shape and pin into place. Use hairspray to help.
9. With the bottom part of the hair, pull into one direction and wrap around itself and pin into place.
10. With the fringe sections, each side needs to be pulled into the twist at the back, grip into a pin curl at the sides. 
11. Add more hairspray to keep it in place. 

Backcombing is something I struggle with a lot. I either make it too messy or when it smooth the front out, I seem to brush out the backcomb too much making the structure become weak and gappy. This is something I need to work on as backcombing is one of the main elements in hair and I will be practicing a lot more on this technique. Overall, I'm not very happy with how this turned out, the back and sides look good but its when you look face on you can see the gaps in the backcombing. 

Learning how to knot

In Helen's lesson, we had a quest speaker who works for a wig making company! He talked about his job and different types of wigs and lace. There is standard lace that comes in many colours for different skin tones. Here is a darker lace on someone with dark skin and you can barely see it. Below is the same person with the lighter lace on them and you can see how important it is to match the lace with the persons skin tone. 

HD lace is much finer and it mainly used in TV & Film because you can barely see it. Regular lace is used in theatres because the actors are working from a distance to the audience. 

Below is a lace wig worth around £3,000! They are very delicate and need to be handled with a lot of care. You can see how each individual hair has been knotted in the lace to create the wig and a natural looking hair line. You can just imagine how much time and effort has been put into creating this wig. 

He also taught us how to start knotting and what process was needed in order to create a moustache. This is a similar principle to creating a lace wig as you need to take exact measurements from your model in order for it to fit them exactly. 

Equipment:

• Clingfilm
• Cellotape
• Coloured card
• Scissors
• Permanent marker
• Block head
• Pins
• Lace
• Cradle
• Hair
• Knotting hook

Steps:

1. Cut a square piece of clingfilm and apply a few strips of cellotape across it to make it stronger. 
2. Place the clingfilm on your models face and use the marker pen to draw the outline of the moustache. 
3. Take the clingfilm and place on a piece of coloured card. Use the outline as a template and cut around it to transfer the card into the desired shape of the moustache.
4. Place the coloured template on the block head and cellotape into position.
5. Cut a square piece of lace and pin it to the block head so that the holes in the lace are horizontal rather than diagonal. 
6. Take about 10 strands of hair and fold in half to create a loop and hold this in one hand.
7. With your other hand, take the hook and put it through a hole in the lace, grab a strand of hair and pull it back through the lace. Then twist it round the 2 ends of hair and pull it through again so it creates a knot, pull quite tightly so it doesn't become loose. 
8. Repeat this step diagonally rather than horizontally as this creates more natural looking hair.

I had so much fun doing it and I surprised myself at how quick I was at knotting. I had my moustache finished within about 5/6 hours and I couldn't wait to start cutting it. I realise now I should have curled it first to make it more realistic but I was a bit too exited about seeing it finished. I am now on to making side burns and my next project will be starting to create a full beard.